Suzhou Juē 蘇州撅
Perhaps the most interesting, and certainly the most rare, object in the Hairpin Museum’s collections is a headdress made from horsehair. This object, called a “Suzhou Juē”, dates from the early 1900s and was worn predominantly by Han women, although there are photographs from that time of Manchurian ladies wearing similar headdresses. Like the “Liang Patou” hats worn by high class Manchurian ladies, the Suzhou Juē was also an imitation of a very elaborate and time consuming hairstyle. Whereas the Liang Patou was made from starched black silk stretched over a steel wire frame the Suzhou Juē was made using real hair - albeit horse’s hair. The horse hair is long, straight and glossy black which is a good match for Asian hair. As well as being combed and tied to resemble the woman’s real hair part of the structure is made up of a kind of knitting or macramé with the hair, which is thick enough work in this way. This hair decoration was worn on the back of the head in imitation of a bun or folded ponytail and came complete with red cord bindings and hairpins, all wound around a small steel frame. Although there are contemporary photographs of women wearing Suzhou Juēs it is not clear how they were attached to the woman’s real hair. From the photographs it seems they were held in position using real hairpins. Sadly, there are no longer any women alive who wore these curious objects in real life so perhaps we will never know for certain how these were worn but it does seem certain that they saved a lot of time and trouble as the lady was getting dressed up to go out in public.
蘇州撅是發源於蘇州的一種髮型,蘇州是中國的時尚發源地,常會引領時尚潮流。
這種髮型可見於1900年左右的老照片,這種髮型甚至流行到北京,通常為漢族婦人的髮型,但也有些時尚的滿族女子相繼模仿。
這是一種假髻,現存之數量不多,原始模型應為真髮所綁,但後期發展至一假髻,可以直接配戴於腦後。
此種髮際由真髮或是黑色馬尾毛所編織,上插簪釵,中國傳統綁髮時所用的紅頭繩,也可見於此假髻上,此髮髻因已近百年,故早已褪色。
配戴時側面會斜插一支長簪,旁別一朵花作為裝飾。
下左圖來自網路,下右圖圖來自老北京的幌子畫冊,此書是在描述北京的商店招牌,此馬尾纂鋪即是在賣各式各樣的假髻和髮型,剛好與左圖相對應。
這種髮型可見於1900年左右的老照片,這種髮型甚至流行到北京,通常為漢族婦人的髮型,但也有些時尚的滿族女子相繼模仿。
這是一種假髻,現存之數量不多,原始模型應為真髮所綁,但後期發展至一假髻,可以直接配戴於腦後。
此種髮際由真髮或是黑色馬尾毛所編織,上插簪釵,中國傳統綁髮時所用的紅頭繩,也可見於此假髻上,此髮髻因已近百年,故早已褪色。
配戴時側面會斜插一支長簪,旁別一朵花作為裝飾。
下左圖來自網路,下右圖圖來自老北京的幌子畫冊,此書是在描述北京的商店招牌,此馬尾纂鋪即是在賣各式各樣的假髻和髮型,剛好與左圖相對應。
上方為網路上蒐集到關於蘇州撅的圖片,若有侵權請予以告知。
此女子從服裝與鞋子看起來為滿族女子,但她梳理蘇州撅髮型。
上方為網路上蒐集的圖片,若有侵權請予以告知。
上方為網路上蒐集的圖片,若有侵權請予以告知。